Installing My Universal Adjustable Speed Motor
NOTE:  Your motor and speed control board were fully tested before shipment.   Thus, there are no
returns and it is REQUIRED that the installer is experienced in electronics and has basic soldering skills.
Most installations will require at least 3 holes to be drilled: Two for mounting the motor and one for the
speed control board.  The speed control board MUST be mounted to a metal surface for proper heat
dissipation, and MUST be insulated from the unit chassis using the hardware provided.

Note that drilling holes causes tiny bits of metal to fly all over the place, and great care must be taken
to ensure that no metal fragments land on your circuit boards or become lodged in your tuner, between
terminals of components, etc.  Keep in mind that even a momentary short circuit can permanently
damage electronic components, making it very important to cover all electronics in your unit to keep
tiny bits of metal from causing such damage.  Installing my adjustable speed motor is completely at
the installer's own risk, and the purchase price DOES NOT INCLUDE any advice or guidance beyond
what is required to install and wire the motor and speed control board.

In many cases, installing your new motor will require knowledge of what else might be connected
to your old speed control board, such as if your program change solenoid gets its voltage from the
speed control board.  Again, knowing this is the installer's responsibility and I cannot offer any help.

On some units, some creativity is required to figure out how to mount the motor in proper alignment
with the flywheel.  You might need to fabricate a mounting bracket if removing the old motor leaves
nothing to mount the new motor to.   
Find a place where there is enough room to mount the speed control board.  On most classic car units,
this will be where the old board was mounted.   If there is any chance that the bottom of the new board
can make contact with the unit chassis, fasten a square of thick paper or other insulating material to
the chassis so that the bare solder joints on the bottom of the board cannot touch any steel parts.

Once you have decided where to mount the board, drill a small hole in the chassis where the mounting
hole of the regulator transistor will be.  After drilling this hole, it is VERY important to file away any
burrs, so that the regulator transistor is being mounted to a perfectly flat surface.  This regulator
transistor MUST be insulated from the chassis, and any sharp edges or burrs will cause a short.

If the old motor was mounted inside a steel tube - AND if the tube is large enough in diameter to hold
the new motor with plenty of spare room, drill two holes in the end of the tube for the new motor to
screw into.  Again, remove all burrs and sharp edges.  To remove the burrs INSIDE the tube, a large
drill bit twisted by hand works well.  On most classic car units, two spacer washers (included) are
needed to match the height of the motor pulley with the flywheel's height for proper alignment.

NOTE:  If the mounting tube is small in diameter and the motor will not easily fit, DO NOT TRY TO
FORCE IT !!!  Forcing the motor into the tube will cause the motor's wires to short out against the
wall of the tube.  In this case, you MUST modify the mounting tube so that the motor fits easily and
will not press the wires against the walls of the tube.  Here is an example of how I cut a slot into a
narrow mounting tube for the motor to fit more easily, without compressing the wires:
This clearance slot can
be cut using a hacksaw, a
Dremel tool with a cutoff
wheel, etc.  After cutting
the slot, be sure to file
away all burrs and sharp
edges so that the wires
will not be pierced or
Note that the
location of this clearance
slot must be given careful
consideration to prevent
pinching of the wires
between the slot and rear
or side panels of the unit.

Cut the slot BEFORE
drilling the motor mounting
holes - this is important
to make sure the holes
match the motor position.
Note on some AMC or other units, you may need to cut away almost all of the mounting
tube, leaving not much more than the flat end onto which the new motor can be mounted.
But in most cases, simply cutting a clearance slot will allow the tube to be expanded
enough to allow the new motor to slide in easily.  If MOST of the tube must be removed
for the new motor to fit, use a Dremel tool and have plenty of abrasive cutoff wheels.
Once the new motor can slide easily into the mounting tube (if your machine has a mounting tube),
you can then "eye up" the location of the two motor mounting holes and drill them.  It's okay to
drill the holes a bit larger than needed to make alignment with the motor's mounting holes easier.
If possible, line the holes up with the pulley and flywheel as shown - this will ensure that the drive
belt does not drag against the mounting screws:
Note the location of the
two spacer washers on
each side, shown by the
black arrow.  This is
often required to match
the height of the pulley
with that of the flywheel.

If the tube is very narrow,
you will need to file away
enough of the washers
to fit inside (or use a
different spacer type).

Below is an easy way to
keep the washers in place
while lifting the motor
into position:
Insert two short lengths
of a Q-Tip into the motor
mounting holes, slide
the washers onto them.

When lifting the motor
into place, poke the Q
Tip pieces through the
mounting holes.

Holding the motor in
place firmly, remove
Q-Tips and insert
the mounting screw

Do one side at a time -
tightening for first screw
makes the second one
easier to insert.
Next:  Test-Fitting the Belt For Proper Alignment
DON'T DO ANY WIRING YET, because you might need to remove the motor again.  We need to
make sure the motor pulley and flywheel are properly aligned with each other before we do any
wiring, which would make the motor much more difficult to remove.  Install the drive belt, spin
the flywheel by hand and make sure the belt is perfectly centered on the pulley.  If not, it will
come off in operation and you'll have to do it all over again.

A square belt can tolerate some misalignment, but a flat belt must be absolutely perfect or it will
ride up onto the pulley's flange or come off altogether.  Turn the flywheel in the SAME DIRECTION
as it will be turning in actual use.  If desired, it is safe to apply 12 volts directly to the motor's
red and blue wires instead of turning the flywheel by hand.

If the belt rides up onto the pulley flange or comes off, you need to insert more (or fewer) spacers
in order to give the motor a slight tilt.  Tilting the motor BACK will make the belt ride LOWER on
the pulley, while tilting it FORWARD will make the belt ride HIGHER.

If the mounting tube is thin steel, you can simply use a large screwdriver as a lever to wedge
against the motor, causing the tube to bend slightly.  
But if the mounting tube is CAST, DO NOT
TRY TO BEND IT BECAUSE IT WILL BREAK!  If the mounting tube is cast, you MUST experiment
with spacers until the belt is properly aligned.
Mounting and Connecting the Speed Control Board
The speed control board is generally mounted close to the motor, and MUST be mounted to a metal
surface for proper heat dissipation.  It must also be FULLY INSULATED from the surface it mounts
to, using the mounting hardware provided.  Below is a picture of how to mount the speed board.
Rubber Insulator
Transistor Tab
Shoulder Washer
Mounting Sequence

1.  Insert screw through
mounting surface.

2.  Slide rubber insulator
over the screw

3.  Slide the transistor's
mounting tab over the screw

4.  IMPORTANT:  Slide the plastic
shoulder washer over the screw,
with the shoulder going INSIDE
the transistor mounting tab hole.

5.  Install the nut just tight
enough to push the shoulder
of the plastic washer through
the transistor.

6.  Make sure you can see the
rubber insulator on both sides
of the transistor.  A pair of
tweezers is handy for moving
the rubber insulator into place.

7.  Tighten the nut snugly, but
not too tight or it can short to
the chassis through the transistor.

8.  Use an ohm meter to make sure
the TRANSISTOR is not shorted to
the mounting surface.  Note that
the screw WILL show continuity
to the chassis, but the transistor
mounting tab MUST NOT.
Side View
Front View
Note how the rubber
insulator can be seen
hanging out on both
sides of the transistor,
shown by the
white arrow.

This is important to
ensure that the
transistor's mounting
tab is fully insulated
from the mounting
Time to Wire Everything Up
Testing Your Work and Finishing the Job
Double check your wiring, and make sure the regulator transistor's mounting tab is NOT grounded.
You will need to get to the tiny speed adjustment.  If necessary, turn the unit on its side so that you
can turn the adjustment while playing a tape.  

Apply power to the unit, turn it on and insert a known good tape.  Note that the speed adjustment
has a range of at least 10 full turns, allowing you to make precise adjustments.  It may take a few
full turns to hear a difference in speed.  Simply adjust the speed screw for proper speed - that's it!

After letting the unit play long enough to make sure the belt is properly aligned and will not come off
or ride up onto the pulley flange, you can then power the unit down and put it back together.

In Case of Trouble:

If the motor runs wide open and cannot be slowed down, the transistor mounting tab is probably
shorted to the chassis.  

If the motor does not run, the speed board is probably not getting power.  Check the power source
with a volt meter.  Also check to make sure the board's ground connection is secure.

If the unit plays fine but suddenly speeds up and remains at high speed, the belt has probably
ridden up onto the pulley's flange.

A minor amount of speed drift is normal until the new parts "break in" properly.  Allow the unit
to play for an hour, then come back to it with a fresh ear and perform final adjustment.
RUINING IT.  As the world's most respected and recommended 8 track technician,
even I
occasionally get the rotation wrong
.  Ideally, use an EMPTY cartridge until you know the
direction of rotation is correct, then you are safe using an actual tape.
Below are 4 wiring diagrams.  The one to use depends on which motor you purchased and in which direction
it must rotate:

If your drive belt and flywheel are on
top, you need CCW rotation.

If your drive belt and flywheel are on
bottom, you need CW rotation.

There are two types of motors.  One has a permanently mounted pulley for a FLAT belt.

The other type has either NO PULLEY, or a GROOVED pulley if you paid to have one mounted on the shaft.

Once you find your motor and determine the direction of rotation, wire the motor as shown in the diagram.
Click Inside an Image For Larger View
Regardless of which motor used or the direction of rotation, supply voltage and polarity to the speed control
board remain the same.  The black wire is ALWAYS negative and the red wire is ALWAYS positive.  If your
old motor had only 2 wires, you can simply connect the speed control board to those wires for power.  If
your old motor had more than 2 wires, you must connect the BLACK wire from the board to chassis ground,
there is any doubt concerning polarity, use a DC voltmeter to check it before wiring the board into the unit.
Motor With FLAT Pulley
CCW Rotation
Motor With FLAT Pulley
CW Rotation
Reverse red and
blue wires to motor
Motor With NO Pulley or Grooved Pulley
CCW Rotation
Reverse red and
blue wires to motor
NOTE - The two yellow
MOTOR wires are not
polarity sensitive
Motor With NO Pulley or Grooved Pulley
CCW Rotation
NOTE - The two yellow
MOTOR wires are not
polarity sensitive