Barry's 8 Track Repair - Work Order

Link to Work Order

SPECIFICS ON FILLING OUT THE WORK ORDER

PAGES 1-4

List of terms and conditions that the customer must agree to as a condition of doing business. Some

customers have unrealistic or unreasonable expectations on decades-old equipment, and my terms and conditions help to ensure a smooth, trouble-free environment in which to do business. By signing and

including the work order with your job, you are agreeing to the entirety of my terms and conditions.

Many manufacturers are now putting only a 90 day warranty on NEW products. MY warranty on a

DECADES-OLD UNIT is a full year after repair/conversion. This level of quality and long term reliability

requires me to work COMPLETELY UNDISTURBED and give the customer the best possible performance.

PAGE 5

This section asks mainly for information that will ensure that your unit is sent back to the correct address. It

is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that this information is UNMISTAKABLY CLEAR. Please write as NEATLY as

possible. Note that on many radios, the model and serial number tag are missing. Thus, the work order asks

for something that uniquely identifies your particular unit - initials, scratches, marks, etc.

PAGE 6

This is where you select your choices and options. Note that the customer MUST be willing to have his

radio converted to modern electronics if I consider repair to original stock impossible or unreliable. If your

first choice is repair to original stock, you would select that option in the upper half of the page.

Points of Confusion on Page 6:

If you select a conversion, you DON'T also have to pay for repair to original stock. In other words, circle

ONLY the conversion options desired. Conversion fully cancels repair to original stock.

If your radio and 8 track are contained in the SAME UNIT, you would select "FM Conversion and Power

Upgrade, CLASSIC Combination (or aftermarket) 8 Track Radio" at 549.00

If your radio and 8 track player are TWO SEPARATE COMPONENTS, you would select "FM Conversion

and Power Upgrade to BOTH RADIO AND SEPARATE 8 TRACK PLAYER" AT 749.00.

PAGE 7

My master input/output box brings all available inputs and outputs within easier reach, at the end of roughly

a one foot cable coming out the back of the radio. This is handy for preamp connections to an external amp,

and also includes an unpowered dedicated subwoofer output.

Note that adding an Aux input and/or a subwoofer output ONLY does not require this box, as these jacks can

usually be mounted to the radio's rear cabinet at no additional charge.

If the customer wants to use his original speaker connector(s) for easy plug-and-play installation, BUT wants

to eventually install a larger amplifier and more powerful speakers, this box is the ONLY way to accomplish

that task without having to send the unit back.

Note that the speaker outputs AND the master input/output box can be used at the same time if desired.

PAGE 8

After conversion, your radio will be capable of MUCH more output power - but this requires a fully isolated

speaker system, with NONE of the speaker wires being grounded or shared with any other speaker. Also,

speakers should be capable of handling 30 watts RMS, or 60 watts "peak" depending on the rating system

used by the speaker manufacturer.

Every speaker requires its own dedicated pair or wires going back to the radio. Your original connector will

be removed and replaced with a 12-wire harness:

4 wires for up to 4 speakers (2 wires per speaker)

12 volt "hot" wire

Black ground wire

Orange wire for dial lighting

Blue wire that is "hot" whenever the radio is turned on - often used for a power antenna, or not at all.

NOTE THAT USING YOUR ORIGINAL CONNECTORS WILL NOT GIVE YOU THE INCREASE IN OUTPUT

POWER - YOU WOULD CHOOSE THIS OPTION FOR EASE OF INSTALLATION ONLY.

PAGE 9

Note that most customers purchase Level Two or Level Three expedited service - and since these customers

already have a guaranteed completion/ship date, their names are not included on my Job Status page. Thus,

the list you see on the Job Status page is only a fraction of the number of jobs currently in my shop.

Note that the number of shops offering Aurora conversion is far FEWER THAN ONE PER STATE, meaning

that shops offering these conversions are continuously swamped with work. Because of this, one thing we

absolutely DO NOT ALLOW are calls or E-mails asking about Job Status. For a Level One job, your name

appears on a waiting list, and will slowly "sink" as it gets close to the bench.

LEVEL ONE jobs are suitable for frame-up restorations taking many months.

LEVEL TWO jobs are guaranteed to be completed in 6 to 8 weeks.

LEVEL THREE jobs are guaranteed to be completed in 3 to 5 weeks.

Note that choosing Level One for economy, then pressuring me a couple months later WILL NOT WORK! Any

customer may upgrade his level of service at any time. I DO NOT TRY TO PREDICT TURN TIMES AND WILL

NOT EVEN ANSWER THE QUESTION - MY FOCUS IS "HOW LONG IT WORKS AFTER THE WARRANTY

EXPIRES" If your job is at all time-sensitive, you should purchase Level Two or Level Three service.

"Reminders and Notes Before Packing Your Unit"

If it's not needed to test and repair the unit, DO NOT SEND IT. I am not responsible for loss or damage to knobs,

brackets, ground straps or anything else that is part of the car's installation kit. SEND ONLY THE UNITS AND

KEEP ALL MOUNTING HARDWARE, BRACKETS AND KNOBS. These aren't radio parts - they are car parts.

Finally, the MOST IMPORTANT PART: Your unit MUST be packed MY WAY as shown on the "Packing" page of this website, and also on the home page. It's that important. My policies differ from other shops, in that I don't

beg and plead for customers to pack their items properly. These other shops don't seem to care that a broken

control renders the ENTIRE UNIT inoperative and reduces the number of available cores, thus causing the

prices of even nonworking units to SKYROCKET. If you send ME a carelessly packed unit resulting in a bent

of broken control, I will stand up for the INDUSTRY (of which YOU are a part) and send it back UNTOUCHED.

NO ONE MAKES REPLACEMENT CONTROLS ANYMORE, AND NO ONE EVER WILL AGAIN. ALL NEW

CONTROLS HAVE BEEN EXHAUSED YEARS AGO. IF YOU HAVE A DAMAGED CONTROL, THE ONLY

WAY TO GET A REPLACEMENT IS TO PURCHASE ANOTHER ENTIRE UNIT. MY POLICIES PREVENT

THIS KIND OF DISAPPOINTMENT BY REFUSING TO ACCEPT ITMES NOT PACKED MY WAY.

PAGE 10 - LAST PAGE

Roughly half of all customers enter their credit/debit card information, as I do not require the 3 digit security

code on the reverse side which prevents the card from being used by anyone else, or for anything else. Other

customers are more comfortable having me call for payment, which is perfectly fine and understandable. I call

for payment on the day the job arrives at my shop.

I don't use questionable services such as PayPal, Venmo, Zelle, etc. I have a REAL merchant account with a

REAL bank whose funds are FDIC insured, and who cannot legally freeze my account for "suspicious activity"

when the lack of proper security and ability to confirm my identity is already on THEIR end.

I accept all major credit/debit cards like any other legitimate business - I absolutely will not work with third party

"payment processing services". While I don't need your 3 digit security code, my system WILL ask for your home address and zip code (digits only, not the street name) so please submit a card number associated with the

address you put on Page 5. If you would rather use a different card, simply write "Call for payment".

THANK YOU SO, SO MUCH FOR TOLERATING THIS PROCESS! CONSIDERING THAT LARGE SUMS OF

MONEY AND POTENTIALLY IRREPLACEABLE EQUIPMENT IS INVOLVED, I CONSIDER IT EXTREMELY

IMPORTANT TO HAVE ALL CUSTOMER DETAILS IN WRITING - THIS PROTECTS BOTH OF US.

Of course, you are welcome to call me at 928-533-9666 for any questions that the work order doesn't answer.